New Roofs in Eye

Expert New Roofs
in Eye

What a New Roof Installation Involves

Whether you are replacing a worn-out covering on an existing house or roofing an extension from scratch, a new roof is a significant piece of work. For pitched roofs, it starts with erecting scaffold, stripping the old covering back to the timber structure, inspecting and repairing any damaged rafters or wall plates, and then working back up: breathable underlay, tanalised timber battens, and the new tile or slate fixed course by course from eaves to ridge. Leadwork at flashings, valleys and chimneys is renewed at the same time.

For flat sections, the deck is inspected for rot or movement, and the new membrane - whether mineral felt or EPDM rubber - is installed over rigid insulation board to bring the roof up to current thermal standards. EPDM rubber is now the preferred system on most flat roof replacements because it handles temperature movement without cracking and does not blister the way felt can in warm weather. EPDM flat roofs typically cost £70 to £110 per square metre installed.

A pitched re-roof on a standard semi-detached house typically costs £5,000 to £10,000 using concrete interlocking tiles, or £8,000 to £15,000 in natural slate. These figures can rise if the roofer finds rotten timber once the old covering is stripped.

Material Choices and How They Affect Long-Term Care

The material your roof is made from changes what you need to look out for over its lifetime. Concrete interlocking tiles are relatively low maintenance but can grow moss and lichen after ten to fifteen years, especially on north-facing slopes. Moss holds moisture against the tile surface and can eventually cause surface degradation. It can be treated with a biocide wash - but this should be done carefully, without high-pressure washing, which strips the tile surface and pushes water under the laps.

Natural slate does not absorb moisture the way concrete does, so moss growth is much slower. The main thing to watch with slate is the fixing. Older slate roofs were fixed with iron nails that corrode over time, causing slates to slip. A new slate roof fixed with copper or stainless steel nails will not have this problem for several decades, but it is worth knowing what fixing was used on your roof so you understand the timeline.

EPDM flat roofs need very little maintenance. Check that the edge details and upstands around walls and rooflights are still sealed, and keep the surface clear of leaves and debris that trap moisture. The membrane itself is not affected by UV in the way felt is, so cracking and splitting from sunlight exposure is not a concern.

Aftercare: What to Do in the First Year

After a new roof is installed, it is worth checking a few things in the weeks that follow. If your roofer used a mortar-bedded ridge, inspect it after the first hard frost. Fresh mortar can crack as it cures through its first winter, particularly if it was laid late in the season. This does not always indicate poor workmanship - it can happen with any mortar bedding - but it is better to catch a crack early than to let water in over a full winter. Dry-fix ridge systems avoid this issue entirely, which is one reason they are increasingly used on new roofs.

Check the gutters after the first few weeks. Grit from new concrete tiles can accumulate in gutters and downpipes during the early months. A blocked downpipe causes water to back up and overflow at the gutter, which can damage fascias and cause damp at the eaves. Run a hose along the gutters and watch where the water drains to make sure each downpipe is flowing freely.

Simple Maintenance Habits That Prevent Problems

Most roof problems that turn into expensive repairs start as small issues that were not spotted or acted on promptly. These checks take very little time and need no specialist knowledge.

• Check from the ground after every significant storm. You do not need to go up a ladder. From street level, look along the ridge line for displaced or missing ridge tiles, check the slope for any obvious slipped tiles, and look at the gutters to see whether they are hanging properly or have pulled away from the fascia.
• Look at the ceiling in every upstairs room after heavy rain. A water stain or damp patch on a ceiling is the first sign of a leak. The source may not be directly above the stain - water tracks along timbers - but the stain tells you there is an entry point somewhere.
• Check the loft space once a year. Take a torch into the loft on a dry day and look for daylight coming through the roof, staining on the timbers, or signs of mould on the underlay. In winter, look for frost on the underside of the underlay, which can indicate either poor ventilation or a gap in the covering.
• Keep gutters clear. Clear gutters once in autumn after the leaves have fallen and again in spring. Blocked gutters are one of the most common causes of damp at the eaves and in the walls below.
• Do not let moss accumulate. If moss starts to establish on the tiles, treat it with a suitable biocide product, following the manufacturer's instructions. Do not use a pressure washer - the pressure forces water under the tile laps and damages the surface of concrete tiles.
• Keep an eye on lead flashings. Lead around chimneys, dormers and where the roof meets a wall can lift or crack over time. You can often see this from the ground using binoculars. A small flashing repair caught early is far cheaper than the water damage that follows if it is left.

What Aftercare Does Not Include

There is a clear line between what a homeowner should check and what needs a roofer. Do not walk on the roof tiles yourself. Concrete and clay tiles crack under point loading, and slate can shatter. Walking on a roof without the right equipment and training causes damage and is dangerous. If you need to get up for a closer look, call a roofer and have them go up on scaffold or a properly supported ladder.

Similarly, do not attempt to re-bed ridge tiles yourself with ready-mix mortar. The mortar mix, consistency and curing conditions all affect how well it bonds. A poorly bedded ridge tile will fail sooner than the original and may create a worse problem.

Ventilation and Loft Insulation

A new roof is the right time to look at loft insulation and ventilation together. Current building regulations call for 270mm of mineral wool insulation between and over the loft floor joists for a cold loft (where the insulation is at ceiling level, not at rafter level). Adequate ventilation at eaves and ridge prevents condensation building up in the loft space, which can cause timber decay and mould growth on the underside of the roof covering.

If your new roof includes a breathable underlay, this helps with moisture escape compared to an impermeable felt. But ventilation at the eaves should still not be blocked - tell your roofer if you plan to upgrade the loft insulation so they can ensure the eaves ventilation is not compromised during the installation.

Soffits, Fascias and Guttering

If your soffits and fascias are original timber, they will need painting every few years and will eventually rot. Replacing them with UPVC boards at the same time as a new roof keeps the maintenance burden lower going forward. UPVC fascias and soffits need no painting and do not rot. The scaffold is already in place during a re-roof, which makes this the most cost-effective time to do it. Soffit and fascia replacement on a standard semi-detached house typically costs £800 to £1,800.

Talk to Us About Your New Roof in Eye

We install pitched and flat roofs across Eye and the surrounding area. If you have questions about what your new roof involves or want to know how to look after it once it is finished, call us to arrange a roof survey before we quote the work.