Diss Roofers carry out chimney rebuilds in Attleborough and the surrounding area - here is an honest account of what the job actually involves, from the initial inspection to leaving the site tidy.
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No chimney rebuild should begin without a proper inspection of the stack. Looking at it from the ground with binoculars gives a rough picture, but the detail that matters - the condition of individual mortar joints, the state of the flaunching, how the flashing has been installed and whether the bricks are spalling - needs to be assessed from close range.
That means either erecting a scaffold tower or working from a roof ladder. A roofer who quotes on a chimney rebuild without getting up to look at it is guessing. You should expect whoever surveys the job to be able to describe exactly which courses of brickwork are affected, whether the damage is in the mortar joints or the bricks themselves, and whether the flashing is the source of the damp or secondary to a stack problem.
The inspection also identifies how far down the damage runs. Some rebuilds are limited to the section above the roofline - the most exposed part of the stack. Others need to go further down if the deterioration has progressed below roof level. Knowing this before work starts determines the scale of the job and the scaffolding required.
Chimney work requires safe working access at height. A scaffold tower alongside the stack is the standard solution for most domestic properties. On taller or more complex properties, a fuller scaffold lift may be needed. Some contractors use roof ladders hooked over the ridge, which can be adequate for flashing repairs but is not appropriate for a full rebuild where materials are being carried up and debris brought down.
The scaffolding is usually erected a day before the main work begins, or on the morning of the job. On a straightforward rebuild in Attleborough, the scaffold erection and take-down is often managed by the roofing contractor as part of the overall job. Make sure your quote specifies whether scaffold is included or charged separately - this is a common point of confusion when comparing quotes.
Once access is safe, the demolition begins. The chimney pot or pots are lifted clear and set aside if they are being re-used. The flaunching mortar at the top of the stack is broken out carefully. Then the brickwork is taken down course by course to below the level of the damaged masonry.
This is methodical work, not demolition. Bricks are knocked back and lowered rather than thrown down the roof, both to protect the tiles or slates below and to preserve any sound bricks that will be re-used. Debris is collected in bags or lowered to the ground using a rope and bucket rather than dropped.
The number of courses that come down depends on where the damage ends. On a stack that has been neglected for a long time, it is not unusual to find the deterioration extends further than the initial inspection suggested - once you start taking bricks off, the true extent becomes clear. A good roofer will let you know if this happens rather than just carrying on.
Before new bricks go on, the top of the remaining stack and the surrounding roof area are checked. The existing flashing is removed from its chase in the brickwork and assessed. Lead flashing that is in good condition can sometimes be re-dressed and re-used, but it is more common to install new lead at this stage, particularly if the rebuild involves several courses.
The roof covering immediately around the base of the stack - tiles or slates - is checked for any that were disturbed during the work or were already damaged. Any that are cracked or lifted are replaced or re-bedded at this point.
The state of the internal flue is not directly accessible during a chimney rebuild from the outside, but a roofer can see whether there is obvious collapse of flue liner within the stack as courses are removed. If there is, that needs to be factored in.
New brickwork is laid course by course in the appropriate mortar mix. The mortar is chosen to suit the existing bricks - a lime-based or lime-lean mix for older soft bricks, a firmer mix for modern brickwork. Joints are kept consistent in width and the mortar is struck off neatly.
The brickwork is built up to the original height, or to a height agreed with you if the stack is being lowered slightly as part of the job. Plumb and level checks are made as the courses go up - a chimney stack that leans is a structural concern and also lets water pool against one side rather than shedding it evenly.
As the stack approaches its final height, the flashing chase is cut or raked out in the new brickwork ready for the lead to be dressed in. New step flashing is dressed over the tiles or slates at each course, and cover flashing is fixed into the chases and pointed in with mortar. The flashing is checked to make sure it laps correctly and that there are no gaps where wind-driven rain could penetrate.
With the brickwork complete, the flaunching is formed at the top of the stack. This is the mortar cap that holds the chimney pots in position and slopes away from them so that water drains off rather than pooling around the pot bases. It is typically a sand-and-cement mix, formed by hand and shaped to a clean slope. The pots - either the originals or replacements - are bedded into the fresh flaunching and held upright while it sets.
If the chimney is not in use and is being capped rather than fitted with pots, a purpose-made cap or cowl is fitted instead. This keeps rain and birds out while allowing minimal ventilation to prevent damp accumulation inside the flue.
Once the flaunching has had time to firm up, the scaffold tower or working platform is cleared of tools and materials. Any mortar splashes on tiles or slates below the stack are cleaned off. Loose debris on the roof is swept clear. All waste brickwork, old mortar and packaging is loaded and taken away.
The site is left as it was found. That means gutters cleared of debris if they collected dust from the work, the garden or path below the scaffold free of material, and no leftover bricks or bags abandoned on site.
Chimney rebuilds in Attleborough typically take one to two days on site for a straightforward single stack, plus scaffold erection and take-down. More extensive work or difficult access takes longer.
New mortar on a chimney stack takes time to cure fully. In the first few weeks, avoid pressure washing near the stack and be aware that the flaunching will feel firm but is still hardening. New lead flashing will weather and darken over time - it will look very bright initially but this is normal.
If you were experiencing damp internally linked to the chimney, allow a drying-out period before redecorating. Masonry that has been wet for a long time can take weeks or months to fully dry, even after the source of water entry has been dealt with.
Call Diss Roofers to arrange a survey of your chimney stack. We cover Attleborough and the surrounding area. We will give you a clear picture of what the job involves before any work begins.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
